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Freda, Magda & Roise, Longtang Temple.
BAOSHAN - CHANGNING
It wouldn't seem right visiting a town without also finding its temple. Magda and Roise, two of the graduates we visited in Changning (2 hours from Baoshan by bus), were delighted to take us to Longtang Si, 10km out of town. Both of them had visited the temple before, Roise's last visit being only a few weeks before, when she prayed for success in her teaching exam. Although Magda and Roise were excellent students and did very well in their PIE teaching practice (2 months in rural schools), they failed to make the grades in the County teaching exams. They have both been working as teaching assistants - same work as teachers for a fraction of the pay (400-600RMB a month) - and are now looking to get a better job.

Becoming a teacher here is a bit like joining the army. Once registered with a local Education Bureau (usually their home town) they are at the mercy of leaders. Having passed her exam this time round (the prayers worked), I received a message from Roise saying that she had been posted to a small village several hours from Changning. They have no control over where they end up working, though a bit of guangxi (a complex concept that involves 'relations', 'contacts', 'favour') can improve one's chances of a favourable posting. There are ways to move between counties but it's a convoluted process that involves re-taking exams and pre-empting what the outcomes might be. It's much easier to stay at home.

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Freda preparing a tofu dish for dinner.
JIUJIA VILLAGE
One of the highlights of our time in Changning was a visit to Jiujia village, where Magda is currently living with her boyfriend and his family. We bought lots of vegetables in Changning market and took over the farmhouse kitchen to prepare dinner. Our contributions consisted of lemon cucumber salad, baked aubergine and Freda's ma po doufu (tofu, tomato and herbs). Cooking in a giant wok, solid fuel (logs burning underneath) beats our tiny, ceramic hot plate in Simao. When all the dishes were ready we ate outside, at a small table in the courtyard. With our afternoon stroll around the village and country kitchen experience, this was a very memorable day.

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Lesley with the Jiujia foragers.
On our exploration of the village we met these local women who were on their way home after a day of foraging. Their baskets were empty but they were in good spirits, especially after our chat, which covered the usual - age, nationality, salary (in that order). The markets have a lot of wild mushrooms for sale these days but there are a lot of people competing for this valuable source of income. Better luck next time ladies!
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Dinner in the courtyard.
Magda [front right] gets along well with her soon-to-be mother-in-law [back left, behind Roise], sharing the tasks of cooking and cleaning. Traditionally girls have been considered a burden to Chinese families, particulary if money is short. This isn't because of sexist misconceptions that women can't work as hard. On the contrary, Chinese women seem to be the backbone of the economy and keep many a family afloat while the men keep their brains afloat, with bai jiu (rice brandy). The main sense of burden comes from the fact that, traditionally, girls are brought up to be 'married out' to another family. They are cared for, educated and then sent off with a dowry to care for a husband and all his relatives. Young women often found themselves 'married in' to a family that treated them as a slave. What's more, if they didn't produce a son within 9 months of being married, they'd find themselves replaced with 2nd, 3rd or 4th wives and concubines. Although much of this has changed, it's still common for newlyweds in the countryside to live with one of their families, to help take care of their ageing parents and take over the farm.
 
Magda is delighted to have found in-laws who respect her. We also enjoyed getting to know her new family. Magda and her boyfriend hope to get married some time in the next year. Freda and Edie have already been asked to be bridesmaids, if we are still in China.
 
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On a recent cycle up tea mountain I met this chap, Mr Tang, who was selling handcrafted wooden items from a makeshift craft stall. We got chatting and promised to make a trip out to their wood yard one day. True to our promise we travelled to San Jia Cun, a small village on the outskirts of Simao that's slowly being gobbled up by tower blocks. After a tour of the woodwork studio, kilns and art studio we rummaged through the reject piles, returning with a few boxes and tea caddies. After hanging about the house these rainy days it was great to get out of town and have a small wander. Needless to say, San Jia Cun has changed a lot since we were last there. Half the older red brick houses have been replaced by white-tiled, concrete monstrosities double the size. I understand people want larger, newer houses, but why not build larger brick ones, and just stay off the ceramics? There's no accounting for taste I suppose.

 
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Extraction of hornet larvae from nest.

Cabin fever was rising after several days of house sorting, so we headed out to the countryside, destination Da Zhai village. Our main aims were to deliver photos to Farmer Ding and her neighbours, with whom Ali and the girls planted rice in April [see blog archive]. Ali also hoped to recreate a photo of the rice field, four months on.

We got off the bus at Da Zhai Middle School, opposite which there is a small roadside restaurant. While we tucked into two plates of egg and vegetable fried rice (5 RMB each), the owner prepared a dish of hornets (mixture of bees and larvae) for some other customers. He buys the full nests at a market in Simao at 260 RMB per kilo, and serves them up fried for 60 RMB a dish.

'Three insects make a dish', is one of Yunnan's 'Eighteen Oddities' (shi ba guai). This makes reference to the large size of the mosquitoes in Yunnan, as well as the fact that insects feature regularly on the menu. There's a simple motto: if it's living, eat it. Humans are the exception, although folklore (with a hint of prejudice-based scare-mongering) claims that the Wa people living in the mountains west of Simao are head-hunters.

On a school visit in Jingdong recently the driver screeched to a hault before a cobra basking in the sun ahead. The driver's first thought was to flag down a motorcyclist, to whom he inquired: "Do you know how to catch a snake? That one has a lot of tasty meat on it." Similarly, whenever we pass a cow, pig, goat or chicken, comments invariably focus on the quality of meat: "hao chi" ('good to eat') or 'bu hao chi' (not good to eat'). I usually have something else on my mind. In the case of the cobra, I was admiring it's beauty and trying to take a photo to share this exciting wildlife moment with Freda and Edie. Thanks to the local people's zeal for game, the forests are pretty void of wildlife. The up side? Walking in the countryside is relatively safe. I carried a stick with me today, nevertheless, beating the grass in front as I walked.

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Ali, Farmer Ding [centre] and a friend.
The fields were thick with crops, through which we waded to reach the right photo spot. The rice is nearly fully-grown, and should be harvested in a couple of weeks. Farmer Ding arrived home with a small banana tree on her shoulder, for pig food, and was delighted to find we had returned with photos. She promised to call us the evening before harvest, so that we can go and help out. We are keen to see Edie and Freda's rice the whole way through the process, from seedling to supper. There's a bit more work to be done before then though.

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Ali recreating the original photo where Freda and Edie joined Farmer Ding to plant rice seedlings in April. The crop is now fully grown, almost ready for harvest.
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We helped plant the field back in April
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Four months later, the crop is ripening nicely