 Extraction of hornet larvae from nest.
Cabin fever was rising after several days of house sorting, so we headed out to the countryside, destination Da Zhai village. Our main aims were to deliver photos to Farmer Ding and her neighbours, with whom Ali and the girls planted rice in April [see blog archive]. Ali also hoped to recreate a photo of the rice field, four months on.
We got off the bus at Da Zhai Middle School, opposite which there is a small roadside restaurant. While we tucked into two plates of egg and vegetable fried rice (5 RMB each), the owner prepared a dish of hornets (mixture of bees and larvae) for some other customers. He buys the full nests at a market in Simao at 260 RMB per kilo, and serves them up fried for 60 RMB a dish.
'Three insects make a dish', is one of Yunnan's 'Eighteen Oddities' (shi ba guai). This makes reference to the large size of the mosquitoes in Yunnan, as well as the fact that insects feature regularly on the menu. There's a simple motto: if it's living, eat it. Humans are the exception, although folklore (with a hint of prejudice-based scare-mongering) claims that the Wa people living in the mountains west of Simao are head-hunters.
On a school visit in Jingdong recently the driver screeched to a hault before a cobra basking in the sun ahead. The driver's first thought was to flag down a motorcyclist, to whom he inquired: "Do you know how to catch a snake? That one has a lot of tasty meat on it." Similarly, whenever we pass a cow, pig, goat or chicken, comments invariably focus on the quality of meat: "hao chi" ('good to eat') or 'bu hao chi' (not good to eat'). I usually have something else on my mind. In the case of the cobra, I was admiring it's beauty and trying to take a photo to share this exciting wildlife moment with Freda and Edie. Thanks to the local people's zeal for game, the forests are pretty void of wildlife. The up side? Walking in the countryside is relatively safe. I carried a stick with me today, nevertheless, beating the grass in front as I walked.
 Ali, Farmer Ding [centre] and a friend. The fields were thick with crops, through which we waded to reach the right photo spot. The rice is nearly fully-grown, and should be harvested in a couple of weeks. Farmer Ding arrived home with a small banana tree on her shoulder, for pig food, and was delighted to find we had returned with photos. She promised to call us the evening before harvest, so that we can go and help out. We are keen to see Edie and Freda's rice the whole way through the process, from seedling to supper. There's a bit more work to be done before then though.
 Ali recreating the original photo where Freda and Edie joined Farmer Ding to plant rice seedlings in April. The crop is now fully grown, almost ready for harvest.  We helped plant the field back in April  Four months later, the crop is ripening nicely
 ...but now, after unpacking our suitcases, it's unusually full. Today's main activity was sorting out the cooking ingredients, gifts and goodies we brought back from the UK - lentils, broth mix, pasta, custard, breakfast cereal, cup-a-soups, mustard, pesto, trifle mix, herbs and curry spices. It seemed like a lot at the time but given these that items are unavailable here and may have to last a year, it doesn't seem quite so indulgent.
As we returned for our fifth year in South Yunnan, our luggage capacity was filled, approximately, with: food and cooking ingredients 20 kg, new clothes [of a higher quality and cheaper than in Simao] 20 kg; reading materials 20 kg; toileteries and medical supplies 10 kg; stationery e.g. special notebooks, high quality blank discs, bookbinding paper 5 kg; gifts 15 kg. Hand luggage was extra!
Needless to say, when we go back-packing we pack thriftily - one rucksac between four with only the bare necessities.
What fills your suitcases when you go away?
 Edie having the finishing touches to her new hairstyle. Despite the hot, humid air as we collapsed into bed last night, we all slept very soundly. After a fabulous holiday, it's great to be home! Edie, nevertheless, decided to opt for a cooler hairstyle. We paid a visit to our favourite hairdresser, 'Biker King' (Wang, his surname, means 'king' and he loves motorbikes).
Our first day back is being spent resorting after our house and hamster-sitting tenants (four of our recent graduates) moving out. Dougal has lost a bit of weight but seems well. His teeth have grown back in after the Jingdong incident (see blog archive if this is news to you). The lodgers left the place spotless but despite having the windows open for the last month, it's still musty. Every wet season I am reminded of how damp our clothes and bedding get at this time of year. Pictures start falling off the walls and leather goes mouldy. Time to air our quilts before the rain comes.
 Ali and the girls with Lisa, Howard's driver. After a lazy morning around the flat we were treated to Howard's driver, Lisa, to take us on a few errands, involving visits to China Eastern airline office and Beijing railway station again. This time we were refunding our rail tickets and are now returning to Simao the day after tomorrow. Complex decision-making processes - don't ask!
Although initially reluctant to be driven around the city we soon appreciated the advantages - an air conditioned, comfortable, effortless, door-to-door service in a hot, bustling city. We did relieve Lisa of her services, nevertheless, ahead of schedule. She dropped us at a small stretch of restored Ming Dynasty city wall, where we viewed a small exhibition of paintings, sculpture and photograhps of historic Beijing.
 Lesley and the girls on the city wall This small section of the wall, about 15m high was restored in 2002 and runs for about 2km. Along the side of the wall is a small park with soft, lush green grass, unlike anything we get in South Yunnan. After visiting the wall and museum we wandered back through the park to pick up the Metro back to Wangfujing, where we met Noreen and a fellow hosteller, Steinove.
 EAF with Noreen and Stein. As we left the Metro the heavens opened and the rest of the evening was spent sheltering from rain. The thunder and lightening were spectacular, the worst passing as we ate noodles in an indoor food market off Wangfujing road. The Lonely Planet describes this area as, "a bright and cheery corner of restaurants and stalls overhung with colourful banners and bursting with character and flavour, fronted by an ornate archway." The archway was there, but the ambience was somewhat lacking. Probably better on a DRY summer evening.
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