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On the first morning at the yard I got up at 6:30, unable to sleep any longer due to the noise outside (barking dogs, shouting vendors, trains), not to mention the sun streaming through the thin curtains. I've got used to the daylight hours of Simao (pretty much a 12/12- hour divide between night and day, all year round) and have forgotten how to sleep when it's still light, like during Scottish summers. I made the most of my time by attempting my first batch of steamed bread -not the perfect round shape of ones on sale in the local shop, but edible and half the price. All drinking water has to be boiled, on a double gas burner that I also use for cooking. To be honest, it terrifies me. There's no 'simmer' function. It's designed for hot frying and I use looooong tapers to light the aggressive flame. It is, however, much easier than having to use solid fuel for the giant woks.

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