Our neighbours ripped up their garden today, to make way for a house extension and courtyard. Edie was around to get the benefits -  a large sunflower with seeds to nibble through. She joined the other spectators on the wall outside our house, to watch the demolition process and munch on seeds.

It takes 2-3 hours to get from Central Beijing to Gubeikou by car, and 4-5 hours by train. The railway line takes a scenic route through the mountains, using a series of viaducts, tunnels and slow, uphill chugs. Today we climbed up the hill behind the yard to watch the freight trains (carrying timber, coal and livestock, for instance), arriving at the station in time to see the Beijing service arrive. There were only a handful of people on the train as most people opt for the road. I really enjoyed being in close proximity to these huge, noisy engines as they chugged through this sleepy, mountain station. I could see the appeal of running along side them, and jumping on board to ride on the roof. Don't worry, I'm not planning to do that in the near future.

I got up at 6:30 on our first morning at the yard, as I couldn't sleep any longer. This was as a result of (1) the noise - vendors, dogs, trains (2) the light streaming through the window - not used to it after Simao's 12/12-hour divide between night and day, all year round (3) a stinking cold. I made the most of this time to make my first batch of steamed bread. They didn't look as  round and white as the ones for sale in the local shop, but they tasted good and are half the price. I steam them over a pot of boiling water on the double gas burner. I'm still slightly afraid of the stove. It's noisy and powerful, with no capacity to simmer. It is, however, much more convenient than having to fire up one of the enormous woks with solid fuel [see dark, sooty hatch on the right]. After scrubbing the walls and utensils, I now love using the kitchen. It is big, airy and it doesn't matter if things get spilt all over the floor. Everything gets swept out into the yard at the end of the day and this practical room feels more like an outside than an inside space.

Thanks to the technological wonder of mobile phone communication we can provide up-to-date updates (?) from remote He Xi village, in the wilds of the Chinese countryside, directly (just about...) into your computer...

Text message: Lesley to Ali (1st August 2010 16:52:24)
"We've been clearing and cleaning, exhausted, but I feel like i'm bringing a yard back 2 life. All those visits 2 students' farms help - some things seem like common sense：sprinkling water in yard 2 reduce dust； outside washbasin for face, etc； massive tin basins for soaking manky clothes；washing dishes in plastic bowl on ground becoz there's no work surface around the sink； having mini stools scattered around 2 use when peeling vegs， washing manky feet； frying everything in tons of oil becoz the gas stove is turbo boosted and burns anything else； using a biandan (Ed's note: a carrying stick, usually bamboo) 2 carry pails of rubbish 2 the village wheely bins..."

Mmmm, sounds like fun, doesn't it....?